Edinburgh Leisure | Thursday 20th June 2019 11:05am
Tickets on sale for IFSC European Championships as top climbers descend on Edinburgh this autumn
Tickets are now on sale for the International Federation of Sport Climbing’s (IFSC) European Championships 2019 for lead and speed which will see Europe’s top climbers descend on Edinburgh this autumn.
place at Europe’s largest indoor climbing area, the Edinburgh International
Climbing Arena (EICA): Ratho from 4 – 6th October 2019, the
Championships will be a chance to see the best European climbers compete ahead
of the sport’s debut at the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. Tickets will only be available for Saturday,
5th and Sunday 6th. (Friday, 4th October is for speed
qualifiers and is not open to the public).
The Scottish capital was successful in securing the event, held biennially, following a joint bid by EventScotland, City of Edinburgh Council, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC), Mountaineering Scotland and in conjunction EICA: Ratho.
EICA: Ratho hosted the IFSC World Cup in lead and speed in 2017, with this
sold-out event attracting over 1,200 spectators, athletes and coaches.
Renwick, Head of Customer Operations (West) at Edinburgh Leisure said: “We’re
delighted that Europe’s largest climbing arena is once again able to show off
our world class climbing facilities at EICA: Ratho, following the success of
the IFSC World Cup and Paraclimbing World Cup in September 2017.”
Bush OBE, VisitScotland’s Director of Events, said: “EventScotland is delighted to be supporting
the return of world-class climbing to EICA: Ratho for the second time in as
Councillor Donald Wilson, Culture and
Communities Convenor, said: Councillor
Donald Wilson, Culture and Communities Convenor, said: “We’re very much looking
forward to welcoming the European Championships to Edinburgh in October. It is
a fantastic opportunity to head along to the EICA and see some of Europe’s best
climbers in action. The largest indoor climbing arena in Europe is right on our
doorstep, and this prestigious competition is a chance to see the stars of the
sport compete before they head to the Olympics next year.”
Zoe Spriggins, BMC Competitions Programme Manager said: “We’re super excited to be able to assist Edinburgh in hosting this event. It will be a great competition and the last chance to see GB athletes competing on home soil ahead of Tokyo 2020.
Jamie Smith, Climb Scotland Team Leader, said: “Mountaineering Scotland are excited to welcome the IFSC European Championships to Scotland this year. It is great to see our National Centre being host to the competition which will see some of Europe’s top climbers battle it out over the two days of competition. This event is a great opportunity to inspire our next generation of young climbers as well as helping raise the profile of the sport nationally. This is an exciting time for climbing now being an Olympic sport and Tokyo 2020 just around the corner.”
Parking at Ratho will be limited to 250 cars per day and there will be a £5 charge for parking on-site.
Sport climbing will make its debut at next year’s 2020 Olympic Games after approval was made by the International Olympic Committee (IOC) as part of a package of five youth focused sports, which is at the heart of the vision for Tokyo 2020.
At the Games, 40
athletes – 20 males and 20 females – will compete in three specific disciplines
of climbing: Lead, Speed and Bouldering. The overall podium finishers will be
determined by combining the results of the three disciplines.
Twenty-five million people climb
regularly worldwide and there has been a rapid rise in popularity of climbing
worldwide, a sport that draws diverse climbers from rural and mountain as well
as urban areas.
Anyone with an interest in volunteering at the event should register their interest at http://www.climbscotland.net/join-us/volunteers-wanted---ifsc-european-championships-2019
Media wishing to register for press accreditation at the IFSC World Cup Edinburgh from 4-6 October, should apply online - bit.ly/2XUsw8Z
Twitter: @eicaratho or @Ed_Leisure
Instagram: @eicaratho or @ed_leisure
Key Climbing Facts
Sport climbing is booming: more and more athletes are attracted by vertical challenges, both indoor and outdoor.
Climbing not only trains 656 muscles, it challenges the mind too.
The IFSC has 91 member federations over 5 continents: Africa (6); Asia (22); Europe 43); Oceania (4); Pan-America (16)
In 2018, there were 2,500 licensed athletes
40% of these licensed athletes were women
Athletes represented the 5 continents and 66 countries
Median age of elite athletes was 19 years.
A climbing competition, sometimes shortened to comp, is usually held indoors on purpose built climbing walls. There are three main types of climbing competition: lead, speed, and bouldering.
In the European Championships only lead and speed will be showcased. However, sport climbing (all three disciplines) will be in the Tokyo Olympic Games for the first time in 2020.
Lead – height, endurance and strategy
Athletes climb secured by a rope, one at a time, on an overhanging route with a 6-minute time limit. The athlete who reaches the highest point wins.
In Lead, the aim for the competitors is to go as high as possible in an individual attempt on a 15m wall.
The competitors have a limited amount of time (six (6) minutes) for their attempt.
The Lead ranking is set based on the height (hold number) achieved by the competitors. A competitor gets a “+” added to his score if moving in the direction of the next hold.
The routes are reset between the Qualification, Semi-finals and the Final.
Competitors can preview the route during a collective observation time (six (6) minutes) but cannot attempt the route (no observation in the Qualification round).
Competitors are kept in an isolation room before they perform their “on sight” attempt (no isolation in the Qualification round).
There are different routes for men and women competitors.
Speed - 15 metres in just a few seconds
- Secured from above, climbers run up standardised parallel routes. The fastest climber wins.
- The aim of Speed is to be the fastest to reach the top of a 15m wall.
- Since 2007 the IFSC has created a standard wall for the world record. The climbing time is determined by mechanical-electric timing.
- Men and women compete on identical routes which are not modified between rounds.
- The competitors compete (race) in pairs on identical routes.
- The winner is the first to reach the top of the route.
- The current speed world records are held by:
Men’s – Reza Alipourshenazandifar (IRI) – 5.48 – IFSC World Cup Nanjing, China (30.4.17)
Women’s – Yling Song (CHN) – 7.10 – IFSC World Cup Chongqing, China (26.4.19)
Bouldering competitions consist of climbing short problems with the emphasis on the number of problems completed.
Sport climbing will be in the Olympic Games for the first time in 2020.
About EICA: Ratho
- EICA: Ratho has been run by Edinburgh Leisure since 25 May 2007. Edinburgh Leisure is a not for profit organisation, which provides sport and leisure facilities on behalf of the City of Edinburgh.
- Previous climbing competitions hosted by ‘Ratho’ include:
IFSC World Cup and Paraclimbing Cup – September 2017
IFSC World Youth Climbing Championship – 9 September 2010
IFSC European Climbing Championships – 13,14 June 2014
and multiple IFSC European Youth Cups since 2009
- EICA: Ratho is a climbers’ paradise and Europe’s largest indoor climbing arena, for both new climbers and experts.
- Set in an outdoor quarry with 300 known routes in sport and traditional climbing, ranging in difficult from Grades 2 to 8b, it also offers Scotland’s first Clip ‘n Climb, which opened in March 2016, making any trip here a full-value experience for everyone and anyone.
- In addition, there is a separate boulder room, gym and fitness studio, conference and meeting facilities, Scrambles soft-play area and the ‘Refresh’ café, from which all the entertainment happening in the climbing arena can be viewed.
- Unique features of EICA: Ratho include the ‘Sardinian Pillar’; a 30m high tower wall, (one of the highest indoor walls in Europe); the world’s largest articulated wall, which can be adjusted from 5-12 metre overhang at the push of a button; and three unique stand-alone feature boulders, replicating the ‘real thing’.
- World class performance coaching is available from GB and Scottish Team coaches.
- EICA: Ratho is on the west side of Edinburgh, just beyond the Newbridge junction of the M8 and M9. Five miles beyond Edinburgh Airport, situated on the B7030, which joins the A71 (Edinburgh to Livingstone) with the A89 (which passes Newbridge), the EICA: Ratho is very accessible by car, but unfortunately not by public transport
South Platt Hill
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